Review - The List Eating & Drinking Guide 2011

"Stylish moody interiors with dark leather booths and glowing red shades create an urban clubby atmosphere that accommodates plenty of diners but is cleverly zoned to maintain an intimate mood.

The busy menu takes its themes from across the globe and can initially seem a bit corporate but it is peppered with lively ingredients, creative flourishes and expert takes on classics – such as a faultless eggs Benedict or a thick goulash soup boasting an authentic beefy stock with vivid tomato highlights and a dollop of sour cream for some rounded smoothness. From the Home Comforts section, pork belly is nicely poached and served with crisp cubes of black pudding and creamy apple mash, while the toad-in-the-hole’s batter balloons over the plate with brightly seasoned pork sausages and colcannon mash.

Although the Living Room is part of a chain they have enough independence of spirit to reflect local character and indulge in local sourcing for fish, meat and cheeses. The mix of intelligent service and opulent atmosphere creates a chic buzz that hangs just the right side of inclusive."